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How to Build a Roof

Building a roof can be quite a job, however, with a little know-how it can be done. Here are a few tips on getting it done.

How To Build A Roof

Required Tools

Saw

Tape measure

Nail gun/hammer

Required Materials

2’x8’ lumber

Nails

2’x4’ rafters

Roof noggings/blockings

4’x8’ plywood sheets

Roof purlins

Roof sheathing

Roof underlay

Barge board

Fascia board

Corrugated roofing iron

Ridge capping

Barge flashing

Instructions

Cut your beam supports with a saw and use the nails and hammer to affix them to the front and back walls. Then measure and cut the roof beam to the necessary length out of the 2×8 lumber and nail it in position on top the of the beam supports. Next cut the 2×4 rafters to the required length and affix them to the roof beam.

Then cut more rafters to go between the end rafters along the roof (intermediate rafters) and nail them in position 2 feet apart. You will have to cut a nook known as a ‘bird’s mouth’ in each of the rafters. If you are not sure how to do this look it up on the internet to see how it is done. Then cut 4 rows of noggings to sit between the rafters; put the rows on each side of the wall’s top plates so that the exterior boards and battens will have something to sit into.

Cover the rafters with the plywood, driving in nails no more than 8 inches apart; cover the roof entirely from the roof beam to the end of the rafters. Then nail the roof purlins horizontally across the plywood, overhanging each end of the roof by 1 inch. There must be a minimum of 3 rows of purlins. The bottom row of purlins should be flush with the ends of the rafters, a middle row and a top row close to the roof beam. Nail the ends of the roof sheathing to the bottom purlins from the underside.

Next nail the barge board to the edge of the purlins and flush with the top of the purlins. Join the barge boards at the apex of the roof and cut the lower end 6 inches past the rafters. Fix the fascia board between the barge boards and to the rafter ends and then cover the roof with self-supporting underlay.

Then comes the corrugated roofing iron; attach the roofing iron to the purlins with nails or screws, putting nails/screws into the top and bottom purlins at every second corrugation and driving nails into the intermediate rafters at every 3rd or 4th corrugation.

Put on the ridge capping and then the barge flashing. The barge flashing goes under the top of the ridge capping. Affix the barge flashing to each purlin and to the barge board.

Tips

All joins running parallel with the rafters should be on a rafter. Any required join running parallel with the Roof Beam, has to be under a Purlin.

The roofing ought to overhang the fascia board by 2½ inches.

How to build an awning

An awning may be a great addition to an outdoor space within close proximity of any home. It can be very attractive and can add a beautifying touch to any house, but, most notably, it is a great way to obtain shade during sweltering summers. Purchasing an awning will cost you a substantial amount of money, therefore it may be a wise choice to attempt doing this yourself.Building an awning is not an exceptionally hard task to do and may be even quicker if you get the help of someone willing and competent. If you already know how to operate a regular sewing machine then you will find it even easier to complete this job.

How To Build An Awning

Required Tools

Sewing machine with a large needle

Electric drill

Measuring tape

Pliers

Required Materials

2 key rings

2 support poles

2 screw hooks

4 grommets

4 stakes

4 sections of rope

Large piece of canvas

Instructions

Before you go ahead with building and installing your awning you will need to decide on the exact location you will use when erecting your awning. When you have completed that you may then measure the area and consider how big you will be making your awning in reference to the style you wish to use. You should not be precise with the measurements when purchasing your material as a result of needing more extra space for your hem.

When you have acquired your material you will need to sew a hem around it using your sewing machine to increase its durability by stoppingthe threading at the edge from unwinding. The prefered kind of thread to utilize is one made out of nylon which is more suited for exterior conditions. After you have meticulously hemmed the complete section of canvas you will then be able to install a grommet on each of the corners of your awning.

You will have to obtain your measuring tape again and take a measurement of the awning from the grommet to grommet. You will need to utilize these measurements to figure out where you should drill your two pilot holes. Mark the spot on your wall or wood siding and drill the holes that show the specific area where the awning will join your existing structure.

You will now have to screw the hooks into the pilot holes but ensure the holes have been properly drilled to make this possible or at least less difficult to accomplish. You may use your hands to do this in addition use a pair of pliers to fasten it more securely.

For the part of your awning that will be directly affixed to your house you will have to install a key ring on each grommet. You may then hook one of the key rings to the hook and then do this once more for the other hook. This should be simpler if you are deriving some help from another person who will be able to put up the other ring while you are doing your side.

You will have to stretch the awning so you can figure out where to place the support poles. The poles may be inserted in the ground or on a flat base that you have created for it to stand on. You will then need to run the top of the pole directly through the grommet of the awning.

Take a section of rope and tie it to two of your grommets that currently have the poles going through them. You will then need to stake one section of rope away from each awning pole and then take the other portion of rope and place it adjacent to the original stake. This will mean that the poles will have lines that are supporting it to the sides and front. This is another point where a little assistance will be essential.

Tips

Once you are looking for fabric be sure to consider the colours now on your house. It would possibly be best to buy a colour that will match any colour you may choose to paint your house in future.

When utilizing your drill be sure you are not near any open water sources like puddles.

A patio cover is a covering that is affixed to a residence to create an extra usable space and additional shade. A patio cover may be made above an existing patio just for shade or it might be made in a formerly undeveloped location to create a patio. Patio covers may significantly enhance the complete look and functionality of a home since it lets you to enjoy the outdoors without having to face harsh weather changes. The additional shade will additionally help to keep your house cooler.

As a patio cover can be such a useful structure to own and can additionally raise the value of your home, it might be a good idea to consider one for your own home. To reduce cost you may want to build one yourself since it is not such a complex job with a little know-how. Therefore here are a coupe guidelines to help you build a patio cover of your own.

How To Build A Patio Cover

Required Tools

Nail gun

Level

Framing square

Stapler

Drill

1½-inch drill bit

Required Materials

Post base

4×4 posts

2×6 boards

2×12 boards

Concrete anchors

Plywood

Tar paper

Roof Shingles

Metal screen

Flashing

Instructions

As with countless other things, you may buy a patio cover kit which will give you a design to work with, all the materials you need for finishing the design and even the tools you need for construction. However if you would like to try constructing a patio cover without the extra help then read on.

The first step is to create a plan for your patio cover; some patio covers are totally covered while others provide partial sunlight. So decide on the design and size yours will be. Once you have a design it’s time to go to your local zoning department to make sure that your patio cover is allowed and will not cause you problems later on. As soon as you obtain the go ahead it’s time to start building.

Based on your measurements place the post base using the concrete anchors; put the 4×4 posts on the post base and nail them to the post base. Make the support beam by setting the double 2×12 boards into the roofline; following the design of the roof pitch, cut rafters and tails and then cut the ridgeline and put the rafter in place.

After this place a block between the rafter tails and drill three 1½ inch holes through the center of every third rafter. Staple a piece of the metal screen to the inside of each of the blocks and then install the roof decking.

Mount flashings where the current roofline connects with the patio roofline and set up the tarp paper on the roof allowing an overlap of at least 6 inches, working your way up from the bottom of the roofline. Put in a rain cutter and install shingles from the bottom up once again, overlapping the shingles as well.

Install roof jacks on either side of the patio cover, 2 feet away from the ridgeline and finish up the underside of the roof by putting up sheathing and any other insulation you desire.

Tips and Warnings

Some parts of the building progression will call for the help of an extra person. So ensure that you have someone nearby to aid you.

keep in mind that there are different types of materials used to make patio covers, some are cheaper than others. Thus make your choice based on your preference and how much you are ready to spend. If you choose to use wood, make sure that it is pre-treated to stop rot.

Igloos were present long before brick or wooden houses were popular to provide inside heat and protection from weather elements. Everywhere individuals live, they build houses to suit the type of weather and living conditions in that region. Similarly, people who live in Earth’s freezing regions require a type of home to fit that specific weather. In these regions, building resources are non-existent and as a result the inhabitants had to turn to what they had in abundance, that is snow. The igloo has been tried and verified to be a living structure. It keeps its occupants warm by keeping out wind, holding body heat and because of the ongoing freezing in due course it gets warmer.

Igloos are also utilized by the exploratory like campers and skiers who require short-term housing. An igloo is very straightforward to build but generally needs two people to build. All it takes is a few simple tools to build one.

How To Build An Igloo

Required Materials:

Waterproof Gloves

Two rectangular boxed-shape containers that are topless and bottomless. One should be bigger than the other.

Water

Required Tools:

Snow saw

Snow shovel

Large knife

Directions:

1.Choose an area that has dry, hard-packed snow. Clear the area and mark out a circle in the snow ground, making it as round as possible in the ground.

2.Next you need four-sided blocks to begin constructing the igloo. You can employ two methods to acquire snow blocks specifically if you are working with a partner. One way to do so is to use the snow shovel to stuff snow into the bigger rectangular container and pack it by pressing the snow into it so that it will develop into a hard block. If the snow is too dry, add a little water to it. Once it is completely stacked, hold the container in the air and beat on the top and shake to discharge the block. The other option to obtain blocks is use the snow saw to cut blocks of ice from hard-packed snow.

3.Place the blocks all around the circle that you drew in the snow until the circle is done. Use your snow shovel to put loose snow between the blocks to close gaps and hold them together.

4.Form another layer by replicaticating step 3. Continue positioning blocks and creating other layers continually tilting them toward the middle until just an opening is left at the top.

5.One individual must now get inside the igloo to ensure that the blocks are appropriately placed to complete the igloo. Cut a thinner block to fit the hole at the top and place it on top while the individual inside pares it and makes sure that it is fastened snugly into place.

6.Use the snow shovel to pick up loose snow so as to fill the creases and vents in the igloo.

7.Dig a hole with the shovel in the shape you desire to create an a doorway to the igloo.

8.Once inside, cut holes in the walls and the roof with your knife to avoid suffocation.

9.Trickle water over the igloo to close gaps and harden the blocks to make the igloo more secure.

Tips:

When constructing an igloo, it is wise to use equal sized blocks as much as possible.

Be certain you wear gloves at all times to guard your hands from the freezing temperatures while you work.

If you need extra rooms, simply pack block onto the side of the igloo in the exact way you constructed the original one. Dig an entrance inside the first igloo to enter the next room.

Here you can find more useful tips on how to build an igloo.

Underarm marks on garment are off-putting and if incorrectly treated, they can damage your clothing beyond repair. Underarm stains are one of the most stubborn types to get out and this is one instance in which putting bleach on it, (even color safe bleach), might cause more harm than good. Bleach will damage colored garments and may even cause deeper discolorations on white clothes. Men especially will throw away their white undershirts if the stains get too big. This becomes expensive after the first 10 or so shirts end up in the grabage.

How To Get Rid Of Underarm Stains On Shirts

Underarm stains are made by the mixing of sweat and deodorant oozing into the material of the cloth and drying out. This leaves the unattractive and unpleasant smelling yellow or white discoloration. There are a number of ways to get rid of underarm stains on shirts, some of the best ways are described below.

For home remedy armpit spot removal, you will need any one of the following:

Required Materials

White Vinegar

Lemon juice

Aspirin

Instructions

White vinegar

Step one: Pour vinegar directly unto the stain.

Step two: Using a sponge, rub until the stain disappears.

Step three: Launder the shirt as usual.

Lemon juice

Step one: Using a fresh lemon or bottled lemon juice, apply the juice directly onto the stain.

Step two: Rub the juice in gently.

Step three: Let the juice sit for half an hour. You can also hang the shirt in the sun to treat more stubborn stains.

Step four: Launder the shirt as normal.

Aspirin

Step one: Crush 5 aspirin tablets and dissolve them in a half cup of warm water.

Step two: Submerge the stain in the water and soak for two hours.

Step three: Wash the garment as you usually would.

If the home remedies don’t seem to be working for you it is time to bring out the heavy duty treatment.

Required Materials

* Bleach

* Hydrogen peroxide

* Enzymatic cleaners

Instructions

If stains continue to be stubborn, you may have to try chlorine bleach. As mentioned before bleach will shorten the life of your clothes. So only try this option if you have exhausted all the other options listed above. This is only safe to use on white garment, it will remove the color from all other materials turning them white.

Using bleach:

Step one: Soak the stained white garment in a mixture of one part bleach to 2 parts warm water.

Step two: Launder with other whites as normal.

With hydrogen peroxide:

Step one: Pour two teaspoons of hydrogen peroxide onto the stain.

Step two: Let the garment sit for a few hours then wash with other white clothes.

Using enzymatic cleaners:

These work by using proteins from living organisms to digest any organic material they come into contact with. This makes it in particluar helpful for stains caused from excessive sweating.

Step one: buy an enzymatic cleaner from the store.

Step two: depending on the dispenser, spray or rub the cleaner on the stain.

Step three: let the cleaner stand for as long as is directed on the instructions.

Step four: Wash as usual.

Tips and Tricks

1) To keep underarm stains from setting, you can try wiping your clothes with baby wipes as soon as you get home. The alcohol will dissolve the deodorant and sweat and prevent staining.

2) If all else fails, try sending your garment to the drycleaner. There is no reason to be embarrassed, a stain is a stain and they will know how to remove it without damaging your garments.

3) Do not soak garments that are made of silk, linen or wool. Treat only the stain with one of the home remedies listed above.

4) Never iron or dry clothes that you have treated if the stain has not been removed. The warmth will cause the stain to set, making it even more difficult or even impossible to get rid of.

Nothing can get more infuriating and bothersome than to take out your favourite piece of clothing only to find that it has been ‘decorated’ by ink. Ink is one of the hardest matters to get out of clothes and one way or another it always seems to raise its ugly head into a beloved attire at some time or another. Persons who handle kids should be quite familiar with the situation; no matter the washable crayons and markers you purchase for them, they one way or another find a pen to tarnish their attire. If it’s from a pen or printer, attempting to remove ink from cloth is often hard. If you can relate to this problem and you want real ideas on how to eliminate ink from clothes then continue reading for tried and tested procedures.

How To Get Ink Out Of Clothes

Method #1 – Using Hair Spray

Materials Necessary:

Sponge

Hairspray

Two pieces of paper towels

Small container with clean water

Small basin with warm water

Necessary Tools:

2 clothes pegs

Instructions:

1. Damp the sponge in the regular water that is in the basin. Ensure that the sponge is clean.

2. Tap the stain steadily with the wet sponge.

3. Repeat the dabbing until you are unable to lift away anymore stain from the fabric.

4. Use the clothes pegs and hang the clothes to dry.

5. When the clothing is entirely dried, spray the hairspray straight onto the stain. Do not overspray.

6. Place one paper towel underneath the cloth and the next on top so that the stain touches the paper towels. The cloth should be placed amid the paper towels.

7. Dab the stain with the paper towel from underneath the clothing and repeat until the stain has been totally removed.

8. Wash the clothing using warm water and hang to dry.

Tips and Warnings:

If the kind of ink on the clothing is permanent, you may not succeed to entirely remove the stain but fade it to a good extent.

The quicker you try to remove the ink, the simpler it will be to remove.

If you are working with a delicate fabric, ensure that you dab softly to avoid any mutilation.

Method #2 – Using Hair Conditioner

Needed Materials:

Hair conditioner

Container with warm water

Required Tools:

2 clothes pegs

Instructions:

1. Apply a little hair conditioner right on the stain and rub it in appropriately.

2. Smear a small amount on the opposite side as well and rub in.

3. Put the clothing in the container with warm water and leave to soak ideally overnight. Your stain should vanish by the next morning.

4. Wash the clothing normally and hang out to dry.

Tip

Remember, if the ink is permanent, it might not be entirely removed until after several washing.

Method #3 – Using Bleach (if you are working with plain white clothing)

Necessary Materials:

Bleach

Pan with water

Required Tools:

2 clothes pins

Instructions:

1. Inspect the bleach bottle for the approved amount to use.

2. Pour the approved amount of bleach in the container with water and stir to distribute throughout the water.

3. Put the clothing in the water and leave to soak overnight.

4. Wash normally and hang to dry.

Warning

Never pour bleach right onto material as it will impair it.

Method 4 – Using a Detergent Pen

Needed Tools:

Laundry detergent pen

2 clothes pegs

Directions:

1. These pens are particularly designed for small stains. All you have to do is blot the stain with it until it fades.

2. Wash the clothing like you normally would and hang to dry.

Here’s more information on how to get ink out of clothes.

So, your refrigerator is running water down the inside, and it is collecting on the bottom of it and spoiling your food in the process. Don’t throw that fridge out yet! It may be time to clean out your drain.

How to Repair a Leaking Refrigerator

Required Tools

Screwdriver (Optional)

Cooler

Required Materials

Pipe Cleaner

Water & Vinegar

Instructions:

1.First, you will need to check your “water cup” if you have a traditional freezer-on-top configuration. This is going to be found at the back of the refrigerator, behind the dials and light. You may need to remove the dials and light using a tool. After finding the cup, check to see if it is filled with water. If it is, this is generally a good symbol that the drain hose in the back is stuffed up.

If you have a side-by-side configuration, the drain hole will be in the rear of the freezer at the bottom. You may be required to remove the condenser to reach it. If it is clogged, there is more than likely a good amount of ice on it as well. This will be a good sign it is clogged.

2.If the water cup is full, then you should suck out the water with a turkey baster. If the container is removable, you can take it out and wash it with warm water. While it is out, you will be able to squirt a 50/50 vinegar and water mixture down the drain tube. This will clear it out and keep it from freezing up on you. A pipe cleaner may aid in cleaning out especially clogged drains.

If the side-by-side has it’s drain plugged, you may need to unplug it and wait for the drain to unthaw. Use the device to put your food in so that it won’t thaw out, and you can even put it in the refrigerator and close the door to keep it cool in there while it is unplugged. It may take as long as 4 or 5 hours to unthaw.

3.If you have the standard configuration and it continues to leak, check the drain in the freezer. It should be located underneath the coils in the back. Pour some water and vinegar through the drain to see if it is blocked. If it is clogged, you can put your frozen food in a cooler; unplug it and wait a while. This should unfreeze the drain; once thawed, pour water down it to see if it is unblocked. If not, use the pipe cleaner and see if you can push it down there to get it unblocked.

Tips & Warnings

If your refrigerator is dripping on the floor, there could be multiple problems. Go to the manufacturer’s store in the resources section for the potential problems.

Here you can find more information on how to repair a leaking refridgerator.

There are few joys that exceed watching youngsters play with their playthings. It is normally the aftermath that are hard to deal with. It consists of an assortment of dolls trucks, mini cooking sets, blocks and lots of other unrecognizable items that make a bunch of noises when stepped on after being left on the ground. When it becomes time to teach youngsters to clean up their own toys and put them away, parents will need the right tools to encourage them. A toy box or toy chest is just the thing. These are simple wooden boxes designed with a lid that are obtainable in a range of sizes that kids can put their playthings in when playtime is over. A great project for parents can be building a toy box for their youngsters. This guide will help.

How To Build A Toy Box

Required tools and materials

Two 1 x 10 boards, 4 feet long

One 1 x 8 board, 6 feet long

3/4″ thick Plywood or particleboard,

Three hinges with screws that open past 90 degrees but less than 180 degrees

Six 2 1/2″, double-wide corner braces with screws

Sandpaper

Satin polyurethane spray finish

Wood glue

Handsaw or Circular saw

Screwdriver

Drill

Four plate thick, soft rope (for handles)

4 bun feet

4 felt pads (to go under the feet)

10 brackets

Tape measure

Instructions

Step one: Cut out the pieces for the toy box

Using tape measure, Measure and tag 135 inches on the 2 1 x 10 boards that are 4 feet long and cut with the saw. What will remain are 2 1 x 10 in pieces 34 long and 2 1×10 pieces 135 inches long.

Cut the particle board to 32.5 x 135 inches or have it cut for you at a lumberyard.

Create the double lid in this design by cutting the 1 x 8 board directly down the center.

Step two: piece together the cut pieces

On a flat surface, screw six corner braces in to position, 2 on the every one of the longer sides and one on each of the two shorter sides that will be the base of the toy box.

Attach the 32.5 x 135 inch particle board with the other sides of the braces.

Step three: Add the lids

Screw the six trap hinges into position. The lids will swing so that they lie clean against both sides of the box when open for easy access to playthings.

Step four: Disassemble, sand add holes for handles

This is to give the finishes and paint without getting any on the braces, screws and hinges. Take all of these off and set them away.

Sand all the pieces of wood smooth to prevent splinters later

Drill two 1/2″ or 5/8″ diameter holes in each end of the box to be used for handles

Step five: Apply finish

Spray a clear polyurethane finish on the wood, interior and exterior. If you want to paint the box another colour or add other designs, do this before the polyurethane finish is applied.

Step six:

When the finish is dry reassemble the box, using wood glue to reinforce all the corners. Make sure not to apply wood glue to the lid.

Pass heavy, soft rope through from the outside, tying overhand knots on the interior.

Step seven: Add the feet and complete

Attach the feet 2 inches from both the length and width edge of the box. Screw down from the interior of the box. Add furniture glides to allow movement and prevent damage to wood floors.

Your toy box is ready to use!

Tips and warnings:

Apply polyurethane spray in an open area using masks and goggles.

Also use masks and goggles when sanding and drilling.

Let’s learn how to build a toy box for your kids at home.

A mouse trap car is a miniature vehicle made with a standard mouse trap and using the trap itself for force. It is quite easy to build a mouse trap car from scratch and the materials required are easy to coHme by thus here is a guide on building a mouse trap car of your own.

How To Build A Mouse Trap Car

Required Tools

Pliers

Drill

Saw (optional)

Scissors

Required Materials

A mouse trap

4 eyehooks

6 balloons/rubber bands

Epoxy

2 bic pens/metal rods (axles)

2 tops from pop cans/2 washers

String

4 CDs/DVDs/plywood (wheels)

Instructions

First drill 2 small holes into both end of the mouse trap and screw the 4 eyehooks into them.

For wheels you can use 4 CDs/DVDs or you may cut 4 circles out of plywood using a saw. If you use CDs/DVDs, cut the top and bottom off 2 of the balloons using a pair of scissors and stretch the middle piece over the rim of the CDs you will use for the back wheels to rubberize them for grip. You can still do this if you are using plywood however, this it is not a necessity.

If you use the pens for your axles, remove the top and bottom of the pen leaving just the vacant barrel. The eyehooks you possess should fit narrowly over the pens or over the metal rods if you use them instead. It should not be so tight though that the axle cannot rotate freely.

Create a hole in the middle of one area of the axles, large enough to get the string through. Put the string through the hole in the axle and out one end of the axle. Make a knot in the end of the thread you drew out one end of the axle or knot it around something tiny and then pull it back inside the barrel of the axle until the knot is inside the barrel (this is your back axle).

Next, put the front axle through the eyehooks on the front of the mousetrap (the side opposite to where the bait holder is) and use pliers to pinch the pop can tops or washers onto the axle to prevent the axle from shifting about a lot or coming out to the side. Make sure the washers are not brushing the eyehooks or the wheels will not turn correctly. Go ahead and additionally put in your rear axle.

You may use epoxy to attach the wheels to the axles or you may wrap a balloon or some other kind of rubber around the axle and next gently place the wheels you are using over it. The balloons or rubber will work as a wedge and stop the wheels from moving when the car is traveling.

Now for the movement of the car; fasten the string in the back axle to the center of the jaws of the mousetrap (the U-shaped piece that actually holds a mouse) and draw the jaws toward the back as if you are setting the trap. Hold the jaws tightly in that place and reverse the car until the loose string is completely wrapped around the back axle, set the trap as you would to catch a mouse and your mouse trap care is set to run.

Put it down and use something to release the trap and watch it go!

Tips and Warnings

Make the eyehooks as flush as you can so the axle is not crooked when you put it through the hooks.

Remember to put the rubberized wheels on the back of the car, not on the front.

Be careful to keep your hands away from the jaws when you are setting the trap because recklessness can be quite agonizing.

Here’s more information on how to build a mouse trap car.

A loft bed is basically a bunk bed with just a top bunk and an open space below. Because the bed is off the ground and makes use of the vertical area in a room, it provides you with additional usable floor space. Since you can place chests, drawers, desks, or whatever else you wish below. Some individuals even use the space below a loft bed as a closet.

Especially if you reside in a small apartment where you require all the space you may obtain, or in a room shared by 2 or more children, a loft bed can be really useful and supply a great deal of extra space. Loft beds are not very costly, you might find a loft bed for as little as $200 however, extra add-ons such as a desk or drawers will mean elevated prices. If you are a D-I-Y individual and you have some knowledge about what you are doing then you may build a loft bed of your own as a weekend assignment. Here is what you will need.

How To Build A Loft Bed

Required Tools

Tape measure

Screw driver

Drill

Ratchet

Electric sander

Required Materials

Plywood piece

Screws

2 x 6s

4 x 4s

Lag bolts

2-inch thick wood slats

2×4 (optional)

Angle brackets

Instructions

It is always recommended to start with a plan; draw up a sketch of what your loft bed will look like and pull out your tape measure to settle on the measurements your bed will be. To measure the size of your bed decide whether you want a twin, double or queen sized bed and use the size of the mattress to decide on the size the bed frame will have to be. Make the frame an inch wider than the mattress to allow for bedding and then it’s time to head out and buy the lumber you will use.

When you have all the lumber its time to get to work. Use the 2×6 pieces of board to build a box that should fit over the mattress you will be using. Drill holes through the corners of the boards and use a screwdriver to screw the box together. Screw angle brackets onto the inside of each corner to support them. Now lay the sheet of plywood over the box to create the bottom of the box. Secure the plywood to the frame with screws spaced 2-feet apart.

Cut the 4x4s to match the height you want your bed to be as they will be the posts of the bed. Set the posts in position and place the box on top of them (you will definitely require help for this step). Drill holes from on top down through the box and into the top of the posts. Ihen use the ratchet and fasten the box to the posts utilizing the lag bolts.

The bed itself is now complete however, you still require a ladder to get up to it. Construct a ladder with the 2-inch thick wood slats, with each slat about 10 inches apart. Keep the slope of the ladder to 60 degrees and finally secure the ladder to the bed using some screws.

Use the electric sander to smooth vital places like the ladder, and if you wish you may add some stain and varnish as finishing touches.

Tips and Warnings

If the bed is not as sturdy as you would want it to be, use the piece of 2×4 to create a diagonal support across the rear of the bed (the side which will be to the wall) for added support.

It is best to use untreated wood for this task to reduce skin contact with any chemicals used for treatment.